Lee Jeans: A Legacy in Denim

We're big fans of denim, and few brands are as iconic as Lee Jeans. Their latest collection, which debuted at the Brand Assembly Show this past March in LA, reimagines their classic workwear styles in fresh new ways. It even inspired us to dive into the brand’s rich history and explore its lasting influence on American fashion.

The Lee story begins in 1889, when Henry David Lee and four business partners founded The H.D. Lee Mercantile Company in Kansas. Originally a supplier of groceries and dry goods, the company packaged and distributed essentials under the Lee brand—long before denim became its claim to fame.

Recognizing the growing demand for durable workwear, Lee opened its first garment factory in Salina, Kansas, in 1912. A year later, they introduced the Union-Alls—an innovative one-piece coverall designed to protect clothing both above and below the waist. Marketed to farmers, mechanics, and railroad workers, the Union-Alls were an instant hit, leading to rapid expansion over the next few years.

By 1921, Lee had a new spokesperson—albeit a pint-sized one. The Buddy Lee doll was introduced as a promotional tool, and for the next 40 years, he helped bring Lee’s latest designs into the spotlight.

Fast-forward to 1925, when Lee partnered with Canton Mills in Georgia to develop a stronger, deeper blue denim. This new 11.5 oz. fabric, engineered for durability and comfort, became the gold standard for workwear and western apparel. A year later, Lee debuted the heavyweight 13 oz. Cowboy Pant—later known as the Lee 101—designed for seamen, loggers, and, of course, cowboys. By 1926, they upped the innovation again with the 101Z, the first-ever jean featuring a zip fly.

The brand continued to evolve, launching the Lady Lee Riders in 1947. By the 1950s, denim had made the leap from workwear to pop culture, thanks in part to James Dean, who cemented its place in fashion history. By 1970, Lee had fully embraced fashion, exporting their garments to over 80 countries.

Recently, Lee has been leaning into collaborations, including Alpha Industries, Buck Mason, and Paul Smith. These collaborations celebrate the brands' shared history of workwear apparel and iconic American style.

At the Brand Assembly Show in LA this past March, Lee unveiled a new collection that nods to its roots. The lineup includes an updated take on the classic Union-Alls, plus pre-distressed pants and shorts, overalls, and jeans in a dreamy rosy-peach hue. Rounding out the collection? Classic tees, button-down shirts in blue and black, and a denim vest perfect for styling a full Canadian tuxedo.

Needless to say, this iconic American brand is still going strong—evolving with the times while staying true to its workwear heritage. We can’t wait to see what Buddy Lee has in store for us next!